Thiapusam - Penang Malaysia

Tracing some of Sydney Upton’s pioneering days prior to his arrival in Australia in 1929 we travelled to Malaysia in February 2020.

Around 60% of Malaysians are Muslim and ‘Sharia Law’ is still practiced in some parts. In many areas Indians, Expat Colonials predominantly British, Chinese and others form the majority of the population and their cultures are accepted and embraced by the Malaysian Government and the Malay people. This is no more evident where due to this diverse mixture of cultures and culinary repertoire, to my mind, Penang would be hard to beat as the “food capital of the world”.

Aside to our investigations of the incredible work Sydney Upton also completed with regard to water and sewer infrastructure in Penang, our trip fatuously coincided with the annual ‘Thiapusam Festival’.

The festival is celebrated by the Tamil / Hindu people on the full moon in the month of Thai (January/February) each year. While not a Malay festival it is still a public holiday enjoyed by all. This huge festival celebrates the legend of the mystic goddess ‘Parvati’ who gives ‘Murugan’ our magical hero a spear so he can vanquish the evil demon ‘Soorapadman’. Well worth the read if you like a bit of full on mythology featuring demons, battles, beautiful goddesses and unrequited love!

With everyone wearing their very best clothes, stunning saris and elaborate costumes the ‘Thaipusam Festival' culminates in an exotic, colourful and very loud pilgrimage for miles along the main street of George Town (Penang) to the hilltop temple. Stalls are erected all along the roadside where delectable food and drink offerings are freely dispensed for all to enjoy. Thousands of coconuts are traditionally smashed intermittently on the streets to cleanse the area prior to the arrival of the Sacred Golden Carriage. Singing, dancing and ceremonies are celebrated for mile after mile.

There were some confronting rituals demonstrated including piercings performed while participants worked themselves to the beat of drums into a trance-like state.

There were large snakes brandished around to admire and hold if that’s your thing.

All in all, one quite amazing, fantastic, noisy big street party that should be included on your bucket list.